Make waves not war

from Surf Magazine article by Bob McTavish (1967)..

..surfing research and development. A group of surfing minds. A headland that receives good swell and favourable winds.

Let’s try the north side of Long Reef, Sydney, a half mile of coast around a rock bottomed pair of coves, the whole place takes any south quarter-wind, cops any swell at all, and has a lousy bottom shape. Really central. Conditions are excellent three to five days a week.

Accurate chart of the bottom, suggestions for wave shapes, models, testing tanks, research on cement and plastic combinations and varieties, methods of anchoring, and go to town.

A pipeline, an Ala Moana, a Malibu left, a Sunset walling into a Laaeakea, a Rincon, a Ti Tree, a right Pipeline, a few more imaginative breaks, some big and power(ful) some small. All varying with tides and swell sizes.

Southerly this morning? Off to the Reef. Wow! Only 200 guys out, only about ten each break.

Slip into wetsuit, grab wax, might just sit on nearby headland for a bit. and raise sensitivity to those waves, maybe get a rough plan figured on how to put together the session. Shape preferences, tide, frame – of mind…. Hit it.

One response to “Make waves not war

  1. This is so “old school”.
    1. the whole area is a marine park – you have to respect that.
    2. the use of what is there using tow-ins is to my mind an appropriate use.
    3. you can shape bottoms but I think you have to involve marine biologists so that all the things in the water also benefit from the development

    Talk to some divers about how beautiful this area is before you think about making surf here.